11.9.08

L'Inde lance la mode du "pauvre chic", par Julien Bouissou

Ils sont pauvres. Leurs corps sont maigres et leurs visages cernés. Mais ils font l'effort de sourire devant l'objectif du photographe. Dans les bras d'une vieille femme édentée, un bébé porte un bavoir de la marque Fendi, d'une valeur de 100 dollars (72 euros).

Dans la cour d'une maison construite en pisé, un paysan mal rasé, vêtu d'une tunique sale et trouée, se protège du soleil en portant un parapluie de la marque Burberry, à 200 dollars. Les noms des marques de luxe sont les seuls à être mentionnés dans les légendes. Les personnages, eux, sont anonymes. On sait juste qu'ils habitent un village pauvre du Rajasthan, dans l'ouest de l'Inde.

Les seize pages de photographies ont été publiées par le magazine Vogue India, dans son édition du mois d'août, en vente à chaque carrefour des grandes villes indiennes. "Nous avons voulu exposer de beaux articles de mode dans un contexte intéressant et plein de charme. Nous avons vu une immense beauté, de l'innocence et de la fraîcheur sur les visages que nous avons saisis", déclare simplement Priya Tanna, la rédactrice en chef du magazine Vogue India.

Les commentateurs de la presse indienne ont surtout été choqués de voir des pauvres assurer la promotion d'articles de luxe. "Rabaisser la pauvreté à ce niveau de frivolité enlève tout sérieux à ce qu'elle représente réellement. Comme si les bébés indiens pauvres, dont la vie est menacée par la malnutrition, pouvaient profiter d'un déjeuner sympathique en portant un bavoir Fendi", écrit Archana Jahagirdar dans les colonnes du quotidien indien Business Standard. Mme Tanna croit au contraire que le luxe n'est plus interdit aux pauvres : "La mode n'est plus le privilège des riches. N'importe qui peut la porter et la rendre magnifique."

Si la mode devient accessible à tous, est-ce le signe que toute l'Inde s'enrichit ? Les statistiques affirment le contraire. Quelques jours après la publication des clichés de pauvres drapés dans des vêtements de luxe, la Banque mondiale rendait publics les chiffres de la pauvreté. Quelque 456 millions d'Indiens vivent avec moins de 1,25 dollar par jour. Le luxe, loin de réduire le fossé entre les riches et les exclus de la croissance, est même perçu par Amrita Shah comme une nouvelle forme de colonisation. "L'intervention du magazine ressemble à celle des premiers missionnaires, apportant Hermès et Miu Miu, comme des outils de civilisation", regrette la journaliste dans un article intitulé "La pauvreté comme papier peint", publié dans le quotidien The Indian Express.

La pauvreté est loin d'avoir disparu, mais le regard porté sur elle change. "Le problème est que les Indiens aisés sont devenus complètement aveugles à la misère", estime Pavan Mehta, l'auteur d'un essai intitulé Quand l'Inde s'éveillera. Le couturier Hemant Sagar, de Lecoanet Hemant, en conclut que les photographies controversées auront au moins le mérite d'ouvrir les yeux sur la misère : "Mis en scène dans un contexte si différent, les pauvres ne suscitent plus l'indifférence. Les Indiens aisés prendront au moins conscience de leur existence."
Julien Bouissou

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